Gone but not forgotten

I saw an article on the Luxist today that claims that a 29 year-old Port Ellen cask strength scotch took the top prize at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. One of the things the article thought was notable was the fact that the distillery was closed in 1983, so obviously there is a very limited supply of this whiskey and no more on the horizon. The Port Ellen distillery used to be located on Islay… which just so happens to be a place I know a little something about.

My book on Islay scotch distilleries, oh that’s right – I am casually referring to a beverage myopic book that I just so happen to have laying around on the subject – because that’s how I roll. My Islay scotch distillery book says that Port Ellen was shut down by Diageo Corporation which also owns the Caol Ila and Lagavulin distilleries on Islay. The scotch market crashed during the 80’s and over production was a big problem - it was pretty common to stop distillery production. Diageo just took things a bit further by tearing out the stills (in the 90’s) and leveling the building in 2003.

The book bemoans the fact when they decided to close Port Ellen it had only been running for 16 years. At the time most Islay scotch were used for blending so it was the blenders who decided which one of the three Islay Diageo distilleries were going to go. They basically choose Port Ellen because its oldest spirit was only 16 years old. At the time the distillers suspected that Port Ellen was a slower maturing spirit than most. It was speculated that it would really come into its own around 18 or 20 years. But with the other two distilleries being better established and having proven maturing track records, Port Ellen was a bit of an unproven underdog. So they closed it. Looks like those old distillers knew their craft and are now vindicated.

As a side note, Ardbeg was closed at about the same time as Port Ellen and all but followed its example. Fortunately, it managed to avoid Port Ellen’s grisly fate and eventually reopened in the 90’s. Today it is a bit of a success story on the island proving that a down and out distillery can be rehabilitated. But really isn’t the moral of the story that you can have enough peaty scotches? Yes, I think it is too.

When Dawn and I were on Islay it was pretty easy to find Port Ellen scotch. Heck, I think even the gas station had it (the gas station had a surprising selection…plus there are no traffic cops). I think we tried an 18 year-old Port Ellen while we were there. It was good. Compared to non-Islay scotches it probably was even great…but that island offers up some pretty stiff competition. We discovered that our tastes run towards 10-12 years-old and cask strength for most scotches. Knowledge is power.

What’s that? …do I happen to have any photos sitting around of the old Port Ellen warehouse? I’m glad you asked. I sure do. The big grey building in the back is The Maltings which peats barley for the island. When its running the town of Port Ellen smells exactly like heaven. Also this very location is just a few minutes stumble from a really excellent Indian restaurant and a hotel bar with a kick’n venison pie. Which just goes and proves what I’ve been saying all along - that Islay is probably the most perfect place on earth.