In keeping on the subject of fine single malt scotches, I saw yet another Luxist article about Islay. This one is about Bruichladdich’s Octomore. Now this is a scotch that I’ve been keeping my eye one since I learned about its existence. Bruichladdich has dubbed their Octomore the world’s peatiest whisky.While on Islay we learned that part of what determines the peatiness of a scotch is the amount of time the barley is smoked over peat fires. The longer the smoking time the peatier the barley. They measure the resulting peatiness using a PPM measurement which stands for phenol parts per million. The barley used to make Octomore ranks in at 131 PPM. Compare this to scotches that are traditionally considered to be “peat monsters” like Ardbeg and Laphroaig that weigh in at 54 PPM and 40 PPM respectively. Yeah, Octomore is a different kind of monster.
Keep in mind two things.
One, high PPM doesn’t by itself determine the resulting peatiness of the scotch. The shape of the still, configuration of the lyne arm, and the timing of when the stillman takes the cuts all play parts too. The shape of the still and the lyne arm (the long copper pipe coming out of the top of the still) determines whether light or heavy vapors get to evaporate out of the still. As the spirit starts to evaporate out the still the earlier stuff (first cut) will be the stuff with the lowest boiling point. This includes methanol (makes you blind) and weaker concentrations of ethanol. The second cut, or middle cut, is what get aged in barrels. The third cut is the dregs once most of the good stuff has already been evaporated off and collected. Every distillery has a different recipe for what they collect as the middle cut. When and how wide the cut is helps determine the character of the scotch.
Two, it’s always possible that the reason barley isn’t peated for longer periods of time isn’t because it’s more time consuming and expensive…but because it doesn’t make for tastier whiskey. Cooking your coffee down in the pot doesn’t necessarily make for tastier coffee (no matter what the Waffle House says).
I had noticed on Bruichladdich’s website last year that they had released Octomore and it was immediately sold out. This made me sad. There were only 6000 bottles for the entire world to share. It was released after we were on the island and we never had a chance to try it.
Today when I saw the Luxist article my yearning for this potent brew was rekindled and I had an uncharacteristically optimistic thought. What if, hope-beyond-hope, a bottle of Octomore had been pre-ordered by an American distributor and they foolishly turned around and resold it. Wouldn’t that be something! After a bit of digging I found one such store that actually had a bottle in stock. A bit of email and phone call later and I have secured a bottle of the beast. I’m positively tingling. I still have to work out actually getting my bottle (hint, it’s not in Alabama), but plans have already been set in motion.
The datasheet for the bottle claims it’s “an iron fist in a velvet glove – and it’s not for everyone.” Honestly, I can’t wait to shake its hand.
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